Mulch Perennials and Bulbs after the Soil Freezes
by Randy Nelson, November 13, 2008
Articles & Publications
The recent drop in temperature that
occurred late last week and continues to persist reminds us that it is
time to cut back our perennials and spread a layer of cover mulch over
them and our bulb beds.
Although snow is probably the best
winter protection for perennials, we can not always depend on adequate
snowfall to form adequate insulation. Therefore, protective cover mulch
is applied to protect plants from extreme cold. More importantly, it
prevents fluctuating temperatures and early warm ups from bringing
plants out of dormancy at a time when they may be vulnerable to damage
by cold weather. The alternating freezing and thawing that may occur
will also cause the plants to be lifted, or heaved, out of the soil,
which will destroy the roots of many plants and kill them. In the case
of spring flowering bulbs, mulch applied after the soil has begun to
freeze will prevent them from emerging too early in the spring when
they may be damaged by late freezes.
The recommended time to apply protective
mulch is as soon as the soil begins to freeze, but it can be applied
long after that. In fact, mulches can be applied on top of the snow
and the snow will increase the insulating value of the mulch. It is
very tempting to apply the cover mulch when we are cleaning up the
gardens in the fall, but it is very important not to apply the mulch to
perennials before the soil begins to freeze as this may encourage
growth beneath the mulch that will weaken the plants.
Frozen ground will also protect your
plants from the feeding activity of mice and voles that may use the
mulch as a winter home. To further protect your bulbs and plants from
rodent damage, place some bait stations made from beverage cans, PVC
pipe, tin cans or similar receptacles in which you have placed a
tablespoon of a pelleted rat and mouse bait beneath the mulch. It is
important to remove these bait stations as soon as the snow melts in
the spring so that they are not picked up by children or come in
contact with pets.
Useful and effective mulches include
five or six inches of whole or shredded leaves, partially decomposed
compost, marsh hay, ground cornstalks, pine needles, straw, and
evergreen boughs. Although woodchips and shredded bark are excellent
mulches, they are better used for covering the soil between plants
where it can be left undisturbed throughout the year. Remove the mulch
as it thaws in early spring to avoid crown rot and other fungus
problems. It is wise to keep the cover handy in case of a late spring
freeze.
Newly planted trees and shrubs should
already be mulched with woodchips or shredded bark to keep the soil
from freezing as early as bare soil. Early mulches around woody plants
allow you to continue to water later in the season. Late season
watering is important, particularly in the case of evergreens. It is
critical that evergreens go into dormancy without suffering from
moisture stress since they will continue to lose moisture through their
needles throughout the winter. If you have not mulched newly planted
trees and shrubs do so now.
Source: Carl Hoffman, Extension
Educator, Stearns and Benton Counties.
If you have questions regarding this article or ideas
for future articles please call the Clay County Extension office at
218.299.5020, 1.800.299.5020 or email me at
nels1657@umn.edu. More
information on horticultural or agricultural topics can be found by
visiting the
Extension, Clay County web
site.
The University of Minnesota, including
the University of Minnesota Extension is an equal opportunity educator
and employer.
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